Friday, November 28, 2008

Windhooked!!

I leave Namibia tomorrow. I can not believe how quickly my time in Windhoek has flown by. I have been here for 3 and half months but, at times, it feels like moments. We will spend a week in Cape Town before travelling back to the States. While I am looking forward to coming home I am sad about leaving Namibia and the 'family' I have created here.

Yesterday we celebrated Thanksgiving by cooking the meal for our staff as an appreciation dinner. The meal was incredible since everyone made their favorite dish from home. It was quite on experience to have 24 cooks in one kitchen! Thanksgiving was also a little bizarre because of how hot it was! Its summer here and the flowers, trees, and bushes are in full bloom. But the day was pretty perfect and it made me realize how much I have come to love the people I have spent the past months with. We are a truly diverse group of individuals but have somehow managed to forge incredible friendships. I thought clicks would form and that it would be impossible for all 24 people to get along. This group proved me wrong. There were some skirmishes through out the semester but nothing substantial.

We have had so much fun together. You can only imagine the ways we created to entertain ourselves this semester! We played games, sang, told stories, danced, swam, went out, and just enjoyed walking around Windhoek. I will really miss the people I live with!

I came to Namibia not knowing what to expect. I had done a lot of research about the history and politics of the region but nothing could have prepared me. Namibia is a gorgeous country and it is filled with incredible people. However, it is facing serious challenges. The World Bank and IMF have declared Namibia a middle income country and with that declaration a lot of aid is leaving Namibia. However the GNI, which determines income level, does not take into account that Namibia has the highest income inequality in the world. The rich are uber rich while 40% of the people can not meet their basic needs every month. The poverty and the wealth stagger you equally. Development is slow and politics has become a dirty word.

The ruling party, SWAPO, has complete control over the country. There is no clear or strong opposition party and the people are very concerned about this. However, SWAPO was Namibia's liberator and the people vote based on history and not issues. It is the failure to address issues that will cripple this fragile democracy. Namibia needs a strong opposition party to act as a watch dog and ensure issues are addressed.

The history of Namibia is violent and turbulent. The people were oppressed for over a century and Namibia is just beginning to recover from Apartheid. Namibia is a fragile democracy with a weak civil society. But the hope and intelligence is present to ensure its triumph as a nation. The country is only 18 years old and has done well for its self since Independence.

Today, I walked through downtown Windhoek for the last time and, as always, forgot I was in Africa. It is a beautiful city with all the modern convinces. But 10 minutes outside the city center people live in tin shacks and scramble for water. If I have learned anything this semester it is that nothing is simple. Development and democracy are complex issues that can not be prescribed but have to be experimented with and studied from every angle. I truly believe Namibia will become one of Africa's greatest success if it can create a solid opposition party and move past its colonial and apartheid history.

Namibia has changed me in ways I can not even begin to describe. I have seen what poverty and despair look like. I have seen children dying of HIV/AIDS. I witnessed democracy in action. I have seen communities striving to do better. I have seen people working tirelessly to protect their democracy and their way of life. I have seen people find hope in the face of despair and to live off of nothing. I have been in awe of the spirit of this nation. The philosophy of UBUNTU (I am because you are) resonates in every aspect of daily life. People matter here. Perhaps that is the greatest lesson I have learned; the importance of every person.

I will write more about my adventures in Cape Town but I can not wait to see everyone when I come home!

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Southern Namibia

Hello! Last week we travelled approximately 5 hours south of Windhoek for the weekend. The South is very different from Windhoek and the "North" in terms of population. Situated in the middle of the Namib desert the South is very hot, very dry, and very sparsely populated. It is a very poor region and many people blame the ruling party, SWAPO, for this. SWAPO was formed originally to represent the Ovambo people but changed its focus in the 1960s to include the entire nation. SWAPO is the liberation party and has ruled the country since liberation in 1990. Since the majority of the population is in the North, and are Ovambo, the Nama people in the South believe development projects and resources have only been given to the North and it has caused tension among the regions and tribes.

We went to the South to study tourism and its effect on development. The first night we stayed at a government ran campground at the Hardop Dam which is the largest dam in Namibia. It was nice and included facilities and picnic tables. The following night we travelled to Berseba which is a community ran campground. The term campground is very generous. There were no facilities and no flat, clear areas for our tents. But the campground is situated at the base of a very cool crater. The 'mountain' is a volcano that scientists believe never erupted and the magnum just went back into the earth. There was a very primitive trail that we were able to take over the top of the mountain and into the crater. The hike took approximately 4 hours and was very fun!! I will post pictures on my Picasa site today for you to see.

The greatest part of being in Berseba was meeting the local Aids action group at the high school. This group of students, primarily women, are working very hard to bridge stereo-types and inform the community about HIV/AIDS. We spent the afternoon with them and taught them new ways to teach HIV/AIDS awareness. It was very productive and I learned SO much from them. One of the hardest barriers to HIV/AIDS to break down is gender inequality. Women bear the brunt of HIV/AIDS and it seriously hinders their development. Also, there is a large occurrence of domestic violence and rapes in Namibia. This is attributed to the stark poverty and limited opportunities in the region. I learn so much from talking to students across Namibia. The younger generation is full of hope and very active in ensuring Namibia concurs HIV/AIDS during their lifetime.

The final night was spent at a private lodge. The difference between the previous 2 nights was tremendous. While we still camped the lodge offered all the amenities of a resort in the States. It was a very educational weekend. Namibia is relying a lot on tourism for its future development and prior to coming here I believed tourism was a great place to start. As with everything I have learned about development there are negatives to tourism and tourism is not the 'big' answer. Development is not simple and there is not one path to achieving sustainable development. This program has done an excellent job at forcing us to think critically about issues and ideas and not accepting an easy answer.

This is our last week of classes in Windhoek. We leave Windhoek in 10 days for Cape Town and then I come home on December 8th. I am very anxious to get out of this heat and back to a Colorado winter (Lets just avoid Wisconsin until absolutely necessary...brrr!). My internship at the Electoral Commission of Namibia ended today. I have spent the past 3 months working with the democracy division on voter education and registration. It was not always fun and never easy but I enjoyed it. Interning with a foreign government is very enlightening and, at times, frustrating. I was the odd person out and stood out like a sore thumb. The people worked very hard to make me feel comfortable and to educate me about their democracy. I shortlisted job applicants, compiled and edited their quarterly magazine, created posters, attended voter education meetings, summarized reports, and wrote a contract for a media company. I still am not sure how/why the contract I wrote is being used but I was with them today when the ECN and the media group signed it. Hopefully, looking up contracts online and copying the general idea will be sufficient but its hardly a professional document. I believe I will bring a copy home to have my Dad read. I am sure he will laugh hysterically! But over all, my time at the ECN was remarkable and I truly enjoyed seeing the dedication to free and fair elections.

I am working a lot on finishing my integrative project for next week. I am creating a political party that I believe will have the resources and ideas ideas to lead Namibia into the future. I am enjoying the process but creating a political manifesto is a lot of work!!

I will post again shortly. We are all just trying to see and experience everything before we leave!! I am getting very anxious to get out of this heat! Its insane! Hopefully, Cape Town will be a little bit cooler! They are also rewiring our house right now so we rarely have electricity during the day which means no cold drinks....ahh the joys of living in a developing country! Stay safe and I will see you all in a few weeks!

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

A Namibian Prespective on the USA Elections 2008

From the time we landed in Jo'burg in August we have been asked by almost every person we met what our views are on the Presidential Election. Does Obama really have a chance? Would America elect a black man? Does America care about the world? Why do you think American democracy is the only democracy?

However, these conversations are never typical. The people here are more informed about the issues than many Americans; both domestic and international policies. To the people of Namibia, and in developing nations across the world, what America does directly impacts their life. I had never understood the power of the United States until I came abroad. People here actively follow our economy and politics. Sadly, most people in Namibia fear our government and consider the United States one of the greatest threats to their democracy and growth. This can be attributed to the foreign policy designed and carried out by the Bush administration and the conditionalites imposed by the United States through International Financial Institutions.

Most of you know how disappointed I was to miss this election. I feared that I would miss out on the emotional impact of this historic election. I have also worked with the Obama campaign at Beloit and was disappointed that I would not be able to 'make a difference'. Yet, I feel completely invigorated and grateful to see the 2008 Election through the worlds view.

Everyday there is coverage in Namibian press about the election. People discussed it constantly. Thankfully, our program director fixed our TV last week. Its the first time it has worked since we have been in Windhoek!! We were able to watch CNN International and other local programs discussing the election! I was amazed to see that the only news on TV this past week was coverage of the US elections. There is a potential civil war in the Congo and continued disruptions in Zimbabwe but the only thing discussed was our elections. I truly was ignorant about the impact the USA has on the world.

People in Namibia strongly supported Obama. Not only because he is black but because they believe he will listen to the developing nations concerns and needs. Namibians see Obama as a diplomat that they do not need to fear.

Last night our group went to the US Cultural Center downtown. The Cultural Center is an extension office of the US Embassy in Windhoek and we were invited to watch news coverage of the election with fellow Americans. It was very neat to attend this event. The center was covered in red, white, and blue and had an equal number of McCain and Obama signs. Abroad, the Embassies and their employees do not endorse any candidate or party. Instead, they endorse the democratic process. We only stayed for a couple hours but I will never forget the excitement of watching an election abroad. Many Namibians attended too and it was great to hear their views not only on politics but on the electoral system.

Of course, a few of us stayed up ALL night to watch the results come in. At 6am we witnessed, with the world, the election of Barack Obama as the next President of the United States of America. We were all inspired and in awe of our country. After spending 3 months in a region that fears American Democracy and struggling to defend our country against critics we finally felt proud and honored to be Americans in Namibia. Most of us cried during the acceptance speech.

It wasn't too long after the results came in that people driving by our house began to honk and cheer. Windhoek is a small city and everyone in our neighboorhood knows Americans live here. As I was walking to my internship this morning with my Obama pin attached to my bag I could not stop smiling. People on the street smiled at me and kept saying, "Obama!". At one point a woman, dressed in traditional Herero clothes, walked past me then came back. She touched my arm and pulled me into a hug. She kissed my check and said, "Thank you. Thank you so very much my Dear". I just stood in the middle of the sidewalk on Independence Avenue and soaked up the significance of electing Obama as the President of the USA. At the Electoral Commission people congratulated me on the success of the elections; they were free and fair. An older gentleman came in just shaking his head. He kept saying, " A black man is the most powerful man in the world. I never thought I would see this day". He spent his life living under apartheid.

Namibians are rejoicing right now. In part because of Obama's ancestry and, in part, because they are optimistic about the future of the world. Our decision to elect Obama has reassured the world about our commitment to democracy, equality, and freedom. The attitude towards America abroad was changed in an instant. People are no longer afraid; they are excited. People view America as an ally again instead of the enemy.

Who knows how long this attitude will last. President Elect Obama is only one man but the dream of his presidency has inspired the world. America effects the lives of people around the world. It is nearly impossible to describe the elation seen by Namibians today. I am inspired by their thoughtful and careful analysis of the issues and their continued commitment to democracy. Witnessing a Presidential election abroad was one of the most exciting and influential events of my trip. I felt a connection to every person today and realized how small the world is. One event can change the course of history. I believe we changed the direction of the world today with a simple election. Its an honor to be an American abroad right now and be allowed the opportunity to discuss why the United States is such an incredible country with exceptional ideals.

Sunday, November 2, 2008

The normal routine

I thought I would give you all a brief glimpse of my 'average' week in Namibia. As I was reading through my blog I realized that I have been highlighting all the amazing aspects of my trip and neglecting my daily life!

The worst part about my trip is my inability to sleep past 6am usually I am up and about by 5:45! But its actually OK since this is the only time the house is quite and I am able to get some work done and take a shower before everyone else wakes up. However, I no longer cringe when both showers are being used, someone is using the toilet, and someone is brushing their teeth at one sink and someone is applying makeup at the other. Its all a part of the experience of having 24 people share 2 bathrooms! The only thing that dampers my enthusiasm in the morning is having to make myself a cup of instant coffee...

On Mondays, I spend the entire day at my internship. I have learned SO much at the ECN but I still have not contributed a lot to the organization. I have labeled myself an 'observer' and I have become more comfortable with my role. I also spend the morning at the ECN on Wednesday.

I have normal classes on Tuesday, Thursday, and Friday. I am taking a history course, a development course, and a political science course. We meet from 9-1pm once a week. Usually, we have speakers and go on 'field-trips' but sometimes we have to endure a 4 hour lecture! Most of our afternoons are free but on Tuesday I have a 2 hour internship course as well.

I did not think that my courses here would be that intensive. I was mistaken. Last week I gave 2 presentations, wrote a blog entry, and turned in 4 papers! Luckily, it was the most intense week of the semester. I still have to complete my integrative project and a few more papers. For my project, 30% of my grade in every course, I am going to create my own political party that I feel has the best chance of solving the political, economic, and health issues facing Namibia. It should be a very intriguing assignment.

Most afternoons are spent doing homework, hanging out with friends, and taking walks. We have explored almost every nook and cranny of Windhoek. Most often, we walk about 10 minutes to Wernhill Mall and the grocery store. I have also spent a lot of time window shopping. As for the 'nightlife' in Windhoek it is limited. There is a backpackers place right up the street that we go to a lot. Its called 'the Box' and has become our common hang out spot. On the weekends there are 3 clubs that people go to but I have not gone yet.

On Saturday mornings a few of us tend to go a place called 'Mugg and Bean'. Its one of the only places I can get real coffee! Afterwards we walk around, go to a park, or find something new to do. Last night, we went out to dinner than went to a concert. Sundays are my lazy days. I tend to do laundry, organize, and then relax at the pool for the rest of the day.

Life in Windhoek is pretty wonderful. I have loved getting to know this city and feeling like I am a part of it! My daily routine is pretty boring with out all the distractions of home. I have no meetings, television, car, or phone to help pass the time. We play a lot of games, watch movies, and spend time at our computers.

I only have 5 weeks left in Southern Africa before I come home! I am not letting myself think too much of home but there are a few things I can not wait for: a glass of cold skim milk, ice water, my own room, real coffee, Target, tortilla chips, salsa, and my family!!